Not Just a Pretty Town

Part II

Ephemerata

Last week’s post described the institutions that enhance life in our little town but on a daily basis there are more subtle benefits to living here–the ephemerata. Probably primary among them is the view from our balcony across the Tiber Valley to the Appennine mountains in the distance. When we decided to buy this house, Terry was most entranced by its historic character while I was particularly keen on the location; both remain important to us, but the view is a daily gift we never fail to enjoy.

From our balcony we can see snow accumulating then melting away on the most distant mountains, or be awed by cloud formations hovering over the hills, or follow the changing light that alters those hills from blue to varying shades of green or watch in anticipation as a rain storm crosses the Tiber Valley on its way to Anghiari. In the near distance we see houses on the flat of the valley where people live outside the town limits; occasionally we hear their dogs bark in the distance. As dawn approaches a rooster crows to summon a spectacular sunrise like the one below.

As I write in the early morning, I can hear a clock chiming 6:00. We have two town clocks set in ancient bell towers, the Big Clock and the Little Clock. The Little Clock is not really smaller, just further away so it sounds smaller. Big Clock always chimes first and moments later, Little Clock follows suit, striking the time again. Then, as if to verify the actual and indisputably correct time, Big Clock tolls the hour once more. On the half hour, Big Clock first sounds the hour and then adds a higher tone to indicate half past; Little Clock has its own means of announcing the half hour, first chiming the hour then pausing before adding another beat in the same register . Thanks to these two time keepers, no one in Anghiari ever needs to be ignorant of the hour of the day.

Even if it’s not a Sunday or holy day, church bells ring morning, noon and early evening, often accompanying the clocks as they chime the hour. But on a religious holiday they ring out in exuberant celebration all through the day and it is a joyous sound. In fact, all the chiming, tolling and gonging of Anghiari’s bells is an aural pleasure on any day.

If bells are a pleasure, water is a necessity. I have lived in places where water is sub-standard, but in Anghiari water comes from springs and is clear and good. For decades I either purchased bottled water or I distilled tap water to remove the impurities. That provided palatable and safe drinking water but didn’t resolve the problem of buildup on dishes, especially glasses, after being washed in a dishwasher. Anghiari’s spring water is perfectly good for drinking right from the faucet and dishes are actually clean when I remove them from the dishwasher.

As a bonus, the city has installed fountains throughout the town where anyone can fill a water bottle, give their dog a drink, or rinse their hands if they want. Most cities in Italy provide fountains, big or small, for the pleasure and utility of residents and visitors. On top of a hill above us, there is even a water dispenser where jugs can be filled at no cost with either still or effervescent water to take home.

Air quality here needs to be mentioned too, though it is easy to take for granted when it is good. Since there is no industry in the area, and maybe because we sit high on a hill, or perhaps because we are surrounded by oxygen producing trees, the air is clean and fresh. Normally it is also relatively dry, a quality that keeps my curly hair from being frizzy hair, a much appreciated boon to good grooming.

Today is Wednesday and it is market day in our piazza. In another few minutes, the vendors will start to arrive for the first time in a couple of months; with the coronavirus lock down outdoor markets such as this one have been prohibited. Though we have been able to get all the vegetables and fruits we needed from a local shop, we look forward to walking again through our market in the piazza with its air of festivity and the glorious bounty offered by various stalls. As I mentioned in a previous post, the vegetables and fruits are exceptional–the tomatoes brighter, larger, and tastier than we normally find in the U S and the same can be said for all produce. I love the radicchio here for its generous size and low price compared to the U S where buying a tiny head to add to a salad seems like a luxury.

Our market also offers roasted meats, cheese, sweets, household goods and, particularly in summer, inexpensive clothing; I have bought a couple of 10 Euro dresses for warm summer days, replacing the shorts I wore in Florida. As our market reopens today, Terry and I will head down to take advantage of it, happy for this beginning of a return to normalcy.

Living in a place where seasons are more emphatically defined has been another, somewhat unexpected pleasure. Having come originally from the north (Michigan and Pennsylvania) Terry and I both appreciated the benevolent climate of Florida when we lived there. But I missed the flora that signaled spring further north–the early blooming forsythia and lilac followed by bearded iris, peonies, and delicate lilies of the valley; all of these have either already bloomed and faded or are blooming now in Anghiari. Seeing these favorites again felt familiar and right, inspiring prospects for gardening whenever we spend a few months as “half-backs” in North Carolina.

Weather sites describe Anghiari as having ‘long cold winters’ and ‘short hot summers’ but the winter seemed mild to us and summers nowhere near so hot as in Florida. Anghiari can get snow on occasion, as the scene below attests. The 3″-4″ snowfall that greeted me one morning was a surprise, a beautiful change of scene, and it melted in a few hours under a sunny sky–a perfect snowfall. And, except for on distant mountains, it was the only time we saw snow this winter.

Although I enjoy cooking most days, we do sometimes like to take advantage of one of the restaurants scattered through our little town We have a few favorites, one of them the recipient of a Michelin award but all offering good meals in a pleasant setting. It is nice to be recognized as a regular customer when we walk in, which doesn’t guarantee a table on a busy night, but is nevertheless appreciated. Our local deli provides us with good ready made food when we want it and Terry goes there to buy most of the wine we drink. And then there is gelato, the best in town at the cafe next door–an evening treat for us at any time of year.

Not surprisingly, an important part of the quality of life here are the friendships we have formed with people in town. As strangers, and American strangers at that, we weren’t sure how successful we would be in integrating into a social life in Anghiari. But that has indeed happened, particularly with neighbors living along our street. Lock down has naturally impeded the process but at one of our last dinner gatherings, a neighbor told us, “you are part of the family.” And there is Valerio who lives down the street from us, but whom we know only slightly as a friendly neighbor and as a fixer when it comes to certain repairs we needed. He passes by our house often, his bright florescent green shoes and laces leading the way as he ambles up the street. Last winter before the coronavirus hit, Valerio invited us to a lamb and chestnut roast at his country property in the spring; now we hope that the invitation is still open for next year.

Another opportunity to connect is within the expat community. Prior to moving here we learned that there is a fairly sizable number of British expats in town; we have so far met only a few of that group but presumably in time will meet others. Thanks to dog walking we have become acquainted with an American couple, owners of two Italian greyhounds and we often see and visit with Greg, who walks them in the city center by morning or along our street at night. We have also met another American couple who spend a few months of the year here, and look forward to seeing them again when they can get to Italy. Terry’s ability to speak Italian is an enormous asset, but even for him communicating with friends in English is easier and definitely an advantage for me with my still rudimentary skills in the Italian language.

But while all of these benefits combine to enhance life here in Anghiari, the greatest benefit of all is simply being here. We conceived of this move as a last, great adventure before we no longer had the energy to take it on. Anyone following my blog knows that not all has gone as planned, starting with the denial of an Elective Residency visa and the consequent need to leave Italy every three months. Now we will return shortly to the States and once there can again apply for the ER visa. Although we feel hopeful for a better result this time, we know that we will continue to spend at least six months of the year in Anghiari, extending that to nine months if we return to Italy with visas. Stay tuned.